Review: Trésind Studio – BBC Good Food Middle East


Since its inception in 2014, Trésind Studio has been a force to be reckoned with in Dubai’s food scene; but this is especially true now more than ever. The award-winning, exclusive fine-dining concept brimming with Indian infusions, has opened at Nakheel Mall, on the iconic Palm Jumeirah. 

Starring a breathtakingly sublime, transitional tasting menu by Chef Himanshu Saini, a culinary mastermind who is considered one of the youngest tastemakers in Indian cuisine today, diners are welcomed and ushered to their intimate tables in a chic setting with a seating capacity of 20 people only. 

It is then that the spectacular epicurean show begins and we can confidently say it will be one of the greatest ones you will experience. A grand open kitchen takes center stage, where you can watch Chef Himanshu Saini and his team work their culinary magic, working meticulously together to present art on a plate. 

The restaurant’s distinctive style marries global ingredients with modern cooking techniques and traditional Indian elements, with the notion of changing the perception of Indian cuisine and elevating how we experience it today. A mission they achieve. Take your appetite with you as well, for each tasting portion is generous and perfectly portioned. 

After a quick walk around, where we were shown a 5,000 sqft urban outdoor garden that was developed with a local organic farm, an al fresco space and a lounge area, we took our seats up front and centre, ready for the evening ahead. 

 

The highlights:

Each dish or beverage that makes its way to your table, is accompanied by a short, impactful description of its elements. Our personalised 17-course tasting menu was to be accompanied by a beverage pairings option; and thus, we looked forward to this educative bit every single time. 

First up, was the Killer pandan, a femme fatale of a creative concoction teeming with infused roasted pickled peanut and green peppercorn, in homemade pandan syrup and lime juice, shaken with a white molasses brewed beverage. This innovative sip is meant to replace the bowl of peanuts one would snack on before a meal, whilst enjoying good conversation and company.

This perfect gateway was followed by seven small one-bite delights, most of which include synergy pairing sips or premium beverages, most home-brewed. The first course comprising a Wood-apple pani puri, pomelo salad and coriander flowers arrived, complemented by a fine, top-quality bubbly. Whilst nursing our bubbly, the second course promptly arrived, featuring a delicate Shiso khakra with raw mango chutney, yogurt crémeux and garden herbs. The third course, served alongside a mango lassi drink, included a Lamb and turnip kebab with a roomali roti tartlet, a garnish of a slightly-cooked turnip and a charming marigold flower atop. This lightly-spiced dish perfectly encapsulated the taste of South India.

Continuing with accompanying sips of mango lassi, next up was what we could describe as a warm hug, a Missi roti cracker with papadum curry and cultured butter; followed by an absolute favourite, a piece of succulent Duck cafreal with nasturtium leaf dolma and pickled cabbage. Each bite was utterly delectable.

After a short breather, the gastronomic experience ensued with a serving of tangy and sweet food, to balance the full-bodied red grape. An earthy raw Beetroot kebab with a sweet white chocolate rosette, cherry balsamic and a red berry chutney to cut through the sweetness, together with amaranth and orange zest comprised the sixth course; and it was downright delectable. The seventh course, based on popular Indian street food, was a Blossom chaat, with pumpkin mash and a trio of chutney, adorned with soft crisp edible butterflies made of potato. An orange wine teeming with apricot, saffron and cherry went hand-in-hand with the eight-course, which encompassed a Padrón pepper with an emulsion of fennel flower and leaf, with buttermilk curry ice cream that is crafted to be had in one single bite.

Ghee roast crab served in a burnt cinnamon stick, with fine crisps and curry leaf tempura made up the ninth course, paired with sips of a tomato butter juice and followed by a portion of premium bubbly. This sumptuous dish is served with tweezers for cutlery, where each flavourful bite is more about the transfer of flavours and spices than the crab meat itself, which is used only as a medium to transport taste to the taster. Another break was needed at this point, where we took a walk outdoors to observe the picturesque garden that offered up the herbs, flowers and even vegetables used in our dining experience. 

Resembling a South Indian meal, the tenth course encompassed the flavours one enjoys when reaching the end of an Indian-inspired meal when the last bit of crunchy papad is inevitably mixed with the last of the pickle and a sweet treat. Sadhya (a hearty traditional Kerala feast, served on a banana leaf) pink peppercorn payasam with a tomato rasam and papadum was the tenth course. The eleventh course contained Tandoori chicken dumplings in a curry brodo (tomato broth with black lentil water, flavoured with North Indian spices such as black and green cardamom), where the dish attempted to showcase the humble tomato elevated by a juice of tandoori drippings and coriander crisp. Kombucha offered a delightful pairing to the twelfth course, which was a fabulous fermented chilli and prawn curry, with popcorn foam and tomato jam, served over a lobster tail. A glass of red grape escorted the thirteenth course, a spectacular melt-in-your-mouth Galouti kebab Scarpetta with a sourdough bun, a recreation of the delicacies served in kebab shops in India. We polished every last bit. 

Morel pulao with spring onions, Thai red chilli and pine nuts, with an Assam tea dashi garnished with a distilled liquid made from cooked and fermented agave plants, constituted the next course. 

Almost at the end but not quite over yet, we were stuffed. We did tell you to bring your appetite! Every course is delectable as ever and you will want to polish every morsel off your plate. 

A pre-dessert zero cooking dish made up the fifteenth course, starring “Le jardin” with cucumber broth and avocado chutney as the base, with mango ice cream and yuzu compressed with aloe vera, with fig bits, melon balls and mangosteen. This course aptly cleanses and refreshes your taste buds, getting you ready for the desserts ahead.

Grape carpaccio with fermented milk ice cream, teeming with raisins, peach notes and a gold leaf on top with hints of ginger; together with a remarkable Masala chai Ghost creative concoction that featured chai masala tea enlivened by an excellent matured Cuban heritage beverage, pineapple juice, lemon, whey and red grape, made up the second last course. 

Each course offered featured a grand spectacle, but the seventeenth course was an extravaganza in itself. Lights around us dimmed and musical notes of Frank Sinatra’s Fly me To the Moon filtered out through speakers. This was followed by the arrival of the last course, a dessert titled “Honeymoon”. Served on a special glowing moon-like lamp, the decadent sweet included organic sidr honey from the Fujairah mountains served on top of the moon (hence, honeymoon); and the prize-winning floral kan-junga black tea from high in the clouds of the Himalayas. Awe-inspiring and luscious, Honeymoon reminded us once again of the remarkable mind and creativity of Chef Himanshu Saini and his team. It was the perfect end to a perfect meal.

 

The verdict:

Nothing like you’ve ever experienced before, Trésind Studio is the definition of expressive epicurean fare. It is a concept that we encourage you to experience at least once in your lifetime. 

 

Book now:

East wing rooftop at Nakheel Mall. Tuesday to Sunday, with two dining schedules at 6:30pm and 9:30pm. Call +97158 895 1272 or email tresindstudio@passionfandb.com. Visit the website or Instagram.



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  1. EyesMUSzKon June 15, 2022
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